The motorcycle transmission delivers power to the rear wheel through a series of structures that include the gearset, the clutch and the drive system. A gearset is a set of gears that enable a rider to move from a complete stop to a cruising speed.
Transmissions on motorcycles typically have four to six gears, although small bikes may have as few as two. The gears are engaged by shifting a lever, which moves shifting forks inside the transmission.
The job of a clutch is to engage and disengage power from the engine crankshaft to the transmission. Without the clutch, the only way to stop the wheels from turning would be to turn off the engine -- an impractical solution in any kind of motorized vehicle. The clutch is a series of spring-loaded plates that, when pressed together, connect the transmission to the crankshaft. When a rider wants to shift gears, he uses the clutch to disconnect the transmission from the crankshaft.
Once the new gear is selected, he uses the clutch to reestablish the connection. There are three basic ways to transmit engine power to the rear wheel of a motorcycle: chain, belt or shaft. Chain final-drive systems are by far the most common. In this system, a sprocket mounted to the output shaft i. When the transmission turns the smaller front sprocket, power is transmitted along the chain to the larger rear sprocket, which then turns the rear wheel.
This type of system must be lubricated and adjusted, and the chain stretches and the sprockets wear, requiring periodic replacements. Belt drives are an alternative to chain drives. Early motorcycles often used leather belts, which could be tensioned to give traction using a spring-loaded pulley and hand lever.
Leather belts often slipped, especially in wet weather, so they were abandoned for other materials and designs. By the s, advances in materials made belt final-drive systems viable again. Today's belts are made of cogged rubber and operate much the same way as metal chains.
Unlike metal chains, they don't require lubrication or cleaning solvents. Shaft final-drives are sometimes used.It was built by Norm Grabowski and pinstriped by Dean Jeffries. Pic found here. The Chevrolet Corvair was powered by an air-cooled flat-six boxer engine that became popular with amateur aircraft builders. Chevy made the Corvair from tothe only mass-produced American car with a rear-mounted, air-cooled engine.
While a bit dirty and a little rough around the edges, its legend and ingenuity rank high for us in moto-folk-art status. It was powered by an inline 4-cylinder based on a supercharged Ford Cosworth. He said it made horsepower, clocking less than 8-seconds in the quarter mile sans nitro! Click here to see video featuring this machine. Angus MacPhail stands on top of over horsepower and launches face first down the strip. The frame is custom built from the ground up to tightly wrap around the powerplant providing a nice clean look that is as easy on the eyes as it is to ride.
A Harley-Davidson 4-speed tranny puts the power to the back wheel, but required new shafts, bearings and gears. The front end is from a Kawasaki ZXR More info found here. Check out some more.
Chevy made the Corvair from tothe only mass-produced car with a rear-mounted, air-cooled engine.
Article has been updated. Thanks, Martin. I am seriously thinking of buying a trike with a corvair engine but I know mothing of theitr reliability or issues.
I was searching the web for corvaior engine info so I could go in with some knowledge but I am having a hard time finding anything more than fluff. I want to know as much as possible, good and bad. Your email address will not be published. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. Motorcycles with Car Engines. Why not? Share this:. May 19, at pm. May 24, at am. Corey says:. May 24, at pm. John Lewis says:. August 13, at pm. Ryan says:. February 6, at am. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.
Follow us on Instagram. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.We've covered a lot of motorcycle powered cars on The Kneeslider and one of the questions we often get is "what do you do for reverse? Jack Fleming, over at Roadstercycle, was having the same issue as everyone else and finally decided to get a major race transmission builder to produce a solution that was small, lightweight just over 15 pounds and able to handle up to horsepower.
Jack gave them the specs and here's the unit he got back. Specifications: 6. Just over 15 lbs. It looks pretty beefy as well as compact so if you're thinking of dropping that Hayabusa engine into a car body of some sort, you might want to check this out. Link: Roadstercycle. I had always figured you could use some sort of off-the-shelf industrial solution but then I heard they are noisy straight cut gears.
Would i need new gears because the r1 does over 60mph and the rabbit does 60mph top speed? This now completes a very important part of my delusion of building a Ariel Atom ish AWD, fully independent suspended car based around a twin turbo GL motor. I can see it now — ish HP, lb-ft of torque, reverse, and lbs. Yee Haa. Gotta start modeling as soon as my bike build is done…. Will they be building a beefier version for those of us who use more than hp when backing up?
Subscribe to RSS
The power has to go through the gearbox whether your in reverse, or drive. If you need more than hp in forward you probably need a car transmission, not a motorcycle anyway. If they can afford to get hp out of a bike engine, my guess is they can afford a full on sequential 6spd from quaife, and the custom bell housing and with clutch assembly to go with it.
The upshot is that most other units crap out at hp… too close for comfort with my and less than most desirable cycle engines. I would think that six speeds in reverse would be lots of fun, and actually useful for some stunt shows like you see at Universal Studios They may use something similar already. I wonder how it would fit between the transmission output, and the paralever driveshaft on a BMW motorcycle driveline….
How to Put a Motorcycle Engine on a Go-Kart
I would like some more information about the reverse gear component advertised. I wish to install a motor bike engine on my Fiat and I think I will be facing this problem for sure. Is this reverse gear installed at the drive end of the motor cycle final drve end. If so how do you hook one up to spin only one rear wheel? Any visual aids for the mentally challenged greatly appreciated. Thanx for your valued time!!
Back in the lean days just after WW2 nothing except auto based power trains were available for powerboaters in the UK. All available from the breakers yard! Anybody got a Hayabusa apart in their shop that could check it out for us? Hi from South Africa. Stephano there is quite an easy way to couple this box to your 3 wheeler. Have a look at an ATV rear wheel set up — lose one side — add a belt cog and viola, you can run a belt drive ala Harley to your rear wheel.
We will be going into production some time in Two seat one behind the other with a very different but workable front suspension setup. Look for it about April The present invention relates to a kit for connecting an engine and transmission.
More specifically, the present invention relates to a adapter kit comprising a bell housing, flywheel, adapter means, preferably in the form of a gland nut and flywheel adapter, and related accessories, for connecting a motorcycle engine, preferably of a type marketed under the name Harley-Davidson to a automobile transmission preferably of a type marketed under the name Volkswagen.
The popularity of dune buggies, or similar all-terrain vehicles has swelled in past years. These types of vehicles are typically four-wheeled, open frame vehicles powered by a small motor and having a conventional transmission.
Similarly, the popularity of "trikes," or three-wheeled open air vehicles, for leisure use has grown. These trikes are similar to their four-wheeled counterparts, except that they have three wheels, and are typically used for on-road applications. In both cases, several engine and transmission combinations have been devised for use in powering these vehicles.
By far, one of the most popular has been the use of the engine and transmission combinations manufactured and sold under the name Volkswagen or "VW" VW engines and transmissions, adopted from the popular VW "Bug" or "Beetle" cars, have several advantages. First, the extreme popularity of these automobiles has led to the great availability of original and replacement engines, transmissions, and related parts. Second, these engines are extremely reliable, rugged, and are fairly light-weight.
Lastly, these engines are air-cooled, eliminating the need for costly and complicated liquid cooling systems. The VW engines used in these sport vehicles are of a 4 cylinder variety, and range in size from to cc. The most common VW transmissions employed are the Type 1 Transaxles, a 4 speed transmission with reverse.
Lately, several alternatives to the use of the VW engine and transmission combination have been explored. One option is the substitution of a motorcycle engine manufactured by Harley-Davidson Co. In particular, the Harley-Davidson V-twin 80 C. These Harley-Davidson engines have the advantage that they are air-cooled, are light-weight, and offer higher horsepower-to-weight and torque-to-displacement ratios than stock VW automobile engines.
On the other hand, the transmissions used on the Harley-Davidson motorcycles are not suitable for use on dune-buggies or "trikes.
Motorcycles with Car Engines
Unfortunately, before the present invention, no simple, reliable means has been devised for coupling these Harley-Davidson engines to the VW transaxles. In order to overcome the above stated problems and limitations, a unique engine adapter kit is provided for coupling a Harley-Davidson manufactured engine to a VW manufactured transaxle.
Accompanying this adapter kit is a unique method of mounting a Harley-Davidson engine to a VW transaxle.
In its preferred embodiment, the adapter kit comprises a bell housing, a flywheel, and means for attaching the flywheel to the output shaft of the engine.
In the preferred form, the attaching means comprises a flywheel adapter and a gland nut. The bell housing is a substantially ring-shaped body having a central aperture therethrough in which the rotor and output shaft of the engine are allowed to rotate.
The bell housing is provided with a number of holes or bores for alignment with bores or holes in both the engine and transmission for use with attaching devices for securing the bell housing to the engine and transmission. The flywheel is a primarily disc-shaped member having a central flange with a central hole therein, and a number of teeth on its outer periphery. Holes are also provided on one side of the flywheel for engagement of attaching means, whereby a pressure disc may be attached thereto.
The attaching means, as stated above, preferably comprise a gland nut and flywheel adapter. The gland nut is comprises a substantially hollow tubular body having a head at one end. At least a portion of the interior of the body of the nut is threaded for engagement with a threaded portion of the output shaft which extends from the engine. The flywheel adapter is also a substantially tubular member, having an interior hollow section large enough to allow passage therethrough of the body portion of the gland nut.
One end of the adapter includes an upwardly extending neck having a number of holes therein. When installed, the neck engages the flange on the flywheel, and the holes accept pins passing through holes in the flange in the flywheel. At the opposite or second end of the adapter, the interior portion thereof has a number of splines thereon for interengagement with splines located on the exterior of the output shaft near the rotor.
In accordance with the present invention, a method of connecting an engine to a transmission is provided. In the preferred method, the bell housing is first attached to the output side of the engine. This is preferably accomplished by passing the bell housing over the output shaft and bolting the housing to the engine. The flywheel adapter is attached to the rear of the flywheel using a number of pins. Next, the gland nut is inserted into the adapter through the central hole in the flange of the flywheel.Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register. Did you miss your activation email? COM donations are not tax deductible This is a public forum. The opinions expressed here don't necessarily reflect the feelings of The Folks That Run The Site that's us unless we explicitly say so, ok? Author Topic: Motorcycle engine to driveshaft? Read times.
Dreamweaver Full Member Posts: How is the connection made from a motorcycle engine to a driveshaft made? Ive searched the net and seen a coupler that appears to go on the trans output side but what allows for the movement of the rear end? Some sort of slip joint? Member Posts: The only one I have seen was a Lotus 7 replica, and was basically a pillow block to support the end and a sprocket adapter.
Might see if some of the kit makers show photos of the parts online. I'm not sure I really understand your question though. You use a driveline adapter on the out put shaft of the motor, then a U-joint then a driveline, with a slip jt. Check out Dwarf Car Racing, on the web. Quaife makes some pieces for motorcycle engines in cars including a gearbox with reverse. Here is one retailer that shows some of the units. Thanks guys, yall got me pointed to the right places. Dakzila Sr. Dreamweaver, If the engine is mounted sideways you can use an automotive U-joint.
Any shop that build Legend Cars can help you out with the adapt that mounts the U-joint to the tranny output shaft. It's about what you do!A stream of oil, flowing from the engine's breather tube and into your motorcycle's air box, is the result of a condition called blow-by. Caused by an increase of pressure within a motorcycle's engine, this phenomenon forces oil up into the breather tube attached to the crankcase.
An engine's crankcase at its most basic is a hollow area that contains the engine's internal parts and oil supply. As the pistons move, they compress the air trapped within the crankcase, creating pressure that escapes through a vent. Without this vent, pressure could continue to build until it catastrophically forces the engine's seals out of place.
The vent joints to the motorcycle's air box or air cleaner by a tube. Once transferred to the air box, any fumes and fuel vapor emitted from the crankcase is pulled back into the carburetor or fuel-injection system and recycled. A well-maintained engine will create a steady internal atmospheric pressure as it operates, transmitting the extra pressure out through the breather tube without problem. But a rise in pressure caused by a pinch in the crankcase breather tube can result in too much engine oil or blow-by.
Blow-by is usually caused by failing piston rings, which are used to separate the engine cylinder's combustion chamber from the crankcase. During operation, the ignited air and fuel mixture can work past, or blow by, the damaged piston rings, increasing the crankcase pressure beyond normal limits. The added pressure displaces the engine oil in the only direction of escape: the breather tube.
From the outside, blow-by seems to do little more than ruin an otherwise perfect air filter. Surely, an oil-soaked air filter will not allow as much air to enter the engine, reducing the engine's performance.
But blow-by tends to continue in a vicious circle as the oil in the air box is pulled back into the engine. Oil droplets can coat the combustion chamber walls, where it is heated by the ignited air and fuel mixture to form carbon buildup that will wreak further havoc on the piston rings. And so it continues until the rings fail altogether. Preventing blow-by usually hinges on your maintenance habits. Checking your crankcase breather hose for kinks or obstruction can go a long toward preventing pressure buildup.
Keeping the engine oil filled properly and well below the engine's maximum capacity will also provide enough space for the crankcase pressure to expand safely.
If you are already experiencing blow-by, you will need to replace the piston rings and disassemble the engine cylinder to remove built-up carbon. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. The Effects of Blow-By on a Motorcycle From the outside, blow-by seems to do little more than ruin an otherwise perfect air filter.Adapting a go-kart with a motorcycle engine is a project that, while complicated, can still be accomplished with simple hand tools and a good plan. It's a good idea to avoid allowing young children to play on a motorcycle-powered go-kart based simply on the ease with which they could get hurt.
For responsible adults, however, the thrill is intoxicating. Choose a small motorcycle engine for your initial buildcc through cc single-cylinder or parallel twin-cylinder motorcycle engines are readily available from local motorcycle scrap yards, generally with the transmission included in the purchase price. More powerful, larger V-twin engines are far too powerful for this build, requiring additional structural support and roll cage construction.
If possible, purchase an engine that you can hear running for yourself. Remove the old go-kart engine using the socket set, retaining the accelerator linkage and mounting points. Determine the overall size and mounting position of the engine you will be installing into the go-kart. Ensure that the exhaust tube will be routed far enough from your head to avoid discomfort. Use graph paper and a pencil to lay out how the engine will be placed in the go-kart. Ensure that the transmission final drive will line up with the sprocket on the rear axle of the go-kart.
Motorcycle engines tend to have three mounting points--two in the front and one in the back. Utilize all of these mounting points for safety. Test-fit the pieces according to the diagram. Because of the additional weight involved, ensure that the engine is mounted as low as possible in the frame. Install the new mounting points by bolting them solidly to the frame or welding them into place. Test-fit the motorcycle engine into place, ensuring again that the drive chain sprockets line up correctly.
Bolt the engine into place. Install the drive chain, new fuel line, accelerator linkage and clutch linkage. You may fabricate either a hand-actuated or foot clutch utilizing leftover motorcycle parts. It may be easiest to use the hand clutch attached to the steering wheel for this purpose.
Install the starter switch and then wire an engine kill switch between the battery and spark plug for manual operation in case of an emergency. Prime the engine with fuel, then ensure that the crankcase has fresh oil, and that the spark plugs are in good condition.
Wear a helmet, then get in and start up your new go-kart. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us.
Step 1 Remove the old go-kart engine using the socket set, retaining the accelerator linkage and mounting points. Step 2 Remove the go-kart transmission and drive belt or chain. Step 1 Use graph paper and a pencil to lay out how the engine will be placed in the go-kart.
Step 3 Install the new mounting points by bolting them solidly to the frame or welding them into place. Assembly the Parts Step 1 Install the drive chain, new fuel line, accelerator linkage and clutch linkage. Step 2 Install the starter switch and then wire an engine kill switch between the battery and spark plug for manual operation in case of an emergency.